Master Gardener's Network Online Magazine Featured Master Gardener Club Gasconade County, Missouri Master Gardener Club Left to Right -- Back Row: Jodi Ocello, Richard Niewald, Brenda Sieker, Carol Turnbough, Robin Schaefferkoetter, Matt Leuchtmann Front Row: Crystal Rademacher, Virginia Buschmeyer, Dina Schoenfeld, Sue Altemeyer, Sandy Greife Not Pictured: Susan Pashia and Beverly Giebler Andy Read, Instructor Read more about this new Master Gardener Club on PAGE 6 _____________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ CLICK HERE to get FREE plans to build a POTTING BENCH! _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ DID YOU KNOW? "There are about 60-to 200- million spaces along our city streets where trees could be planted. This translates to the potential to absorb 33 million more tons of CO2 every year, and saving $4 billion in energy costs." - National Wildlife Federation ________________________________________________________________________________________ |
Master Gardener's Network
| November/December 2009 Edition |
Note from the editor: Thank you to all of you that have
submitted stories for publication in our first edition. Please
be patient with us as we are learning the ins and outs of
publishing our online magazine. Our first editions will
include a combination of stories from Master Gardeners as
well as other freelance writers.
submitted stories for publication in our first edition. Please
be patient with us as we are learning the ins and outs of
publishing our online magazine. Our first editions will
include a combination of stories from Master Gardeners as
well as other freelance writers.
Keep it or Cut it ‐ Assessing Storm Damage on Trees -
by Andy Read, Horticulture Specialist, University of Missouri
In light of the recent storms that have ripped through our area I thought that this would be a good time to
discuss how to decide what to do about damaged trees. Deciding the best course of action can be a difficult
task. Many homeowners find themselves wondering if their trees will survive and what they can do to promote
the health of the tree while maintaining its natural beauty. Combined with these concerns is the practical
matter of needing to get the mess cleaned up in a timely fashion. Fallen limbs or trees that are blocking
driveways or laying on homes or buildings can seriously impede daily life and limbs hanging in trees create a
dangerous situation. While there is a sense of urgency in these situations it is important to be patient. An easy
rule to consider is that if the condition of a tree is unsure and it presents no immediate physical danger, keep
it for now. Trees have an amazing ability to recover from damage so don’t give up to soon. Safety is a major
concern when dealing with storm damaged trees. Trees and branches that are twisted or bent may be under
huge amounts of pressure that can be undetectable to the untrained eye. Release of this pressure by cutting
can produce unpredictable and dangerous results especially to someone operating a chainsaw. The best
course of action in many situations is to hire a professional to take care of the damage. When hiring an
arborist there are a couple of things you can look for to make sure the person or company is reputable. Ideally,
someone on the staff should be a member of a professional association such as the International Society of
Arboriculture (ISA), The National Arborist Association (NAA) or the American Society of Consulting Arborists
(ASCA). There are many reputable arborists who are not affiliated with these groups but members of these
groups receive training and have access to current information about many aspects of tree care. Other things
to look for when choosing an arborist is to be sure they are properly insured and to ask for and check
references whenever possible. When assessing the damage on a tree there are several questions that
should be answered. Prior to the damaging storm was the tree healthy and vigorous? If the tree was
unhealthy before the storm its chances of surviving further damage are greatly diminished. Is the tree a
species that does well in our area and is it planted in the proper location in the landscape? Perhaps you or
the previous owners of your property planted a species of tree that does not thrive in our area. Growing trees
that are only marginally suitable for our climate and soils may be OK under most circumstances but these
trees are going to have a much harder time bouncing back from damage. When planting a young tree it’s easy
to underestimate the size it will reach when full grown. If a tree has been planted to close to a house, under a
power line or crowed with other trees this may be a good time to remove it and start from scratch. How much
of the trees crown (branches) are damaged and how big are the broken branches? When assessing tree
damage remember the 50% rule. If over 50% of the branches on a tree remain intact the tree has a good
chance of surviving. Obviously the larger the diameter of a broken branch the more problematic it will probably
be. It is helpful to think about surface area damaged. Branches that are torn from the tree create more
damaged surface area that is susceptible to attack from diseases and insects than branches that are
snapped off clean. Loosing the main upward growing branch, known as the leader, can cause permanent
damage to many species of trees. The tree may survive without its leader but may be stunted or deformed to
such an extent that it is undesirable in the landscape. When assessing damage it is also important to look at
the surrounding limbs. If a large branch is broken off the tree is there a nearby limb that will grow and fill in the
bare spot? Hopefully this will give everyone some things to consider when assessing storm damage on trees.
Click here to read more of Andy's Ozark Horticulture Blog.
by Andy Read, Horticulture Specialist, University of Missouri
In light of the recent storms that have ripped through our area I thought that this would be a good time to
discuss how to decide what to do about damaged trees. Deciding the best course of action can be a difficult
task. Many homeowners find themselves wondering if their trees will survive and what they can do to promote
the health of the tree while maintaining its natural beauty. Combined with these concerns is the practical
matter of needing to get the mess cleaned up in a timely fashion. Fallen limbs or trees that are blocking
driveways or laying on homes or buildings can seriously impede daily life and limbs hanging in trees create a
dangerous situation. While there is a sense of urgency in these situations it is important to be patient. An easy
rule to consider is that if the condition of a tree is unsure and it presents no immediate physical danger, keep
it for now. Trees have an amazing ability to recover from damage so don’t give up to soon. Safety is a major
concern when dealing with storm damaged trees. Trees and branches that are twisted or bent may be under
huge amounts of pressure that can be undetectable to the untrained eye. Release of this pressure by cutting
can produce unpredictable and dangerous results especially to someone operating a chainsaw. The best
course of action in many situations is to hire a professional to take care of the damage. When hiring an
arborist there are a couple of things you can look for to make sure the person or company is reputable. Ideally,
someone on the staff should be a member of a professional association such as the International Society of
Arboriculture (ISA), The National Arborist Association (NAA) or the American Society of Consulting Arborists
(ASCA). There are many reputable arborists who are not affiliated with these groups but members of these
groups receive training and have access to current information about many aspects of tree care. Other things
to look for when choosing an arborist is to be sure they are properly insured and to ask for and check
references whenever possible. When assessing the damage on a tree there are several questions that
should be answered. Prior to the damaging storm was the tree healthy and vigorous? If the tree was
unhealthy before the storm its chances of surviving further damage are greatly diminished. Is the tree a
species that does well in our area and is it planted in the proper location in the landscape? Perhaps you or
the previous owners of your property planted a species of tree that does not thrive in our area. Growing trees
that are only marginally suitable for our climate and soils may be OK under most circumstances but these
trees are going to have a much harder time bouncing back from damage. When planting a young tree it’s easy
to underestimate the size it will reach when full grown. If a tree has been planted to close to a house, under a
power line or crowed with other trees this may be a good time to remove it and start from scratch. How much
of the trees crown (branches) are damaged and how big are the broken branches? When assessing tree
damage remember the 50% rule. If over 50% of the branches on a tree remain intact the tree has a good
chance of surviving. Obviously the larger the diameter of a broken branch the more problematic it will probably
be. It is helpful to think about surface area damaged. Branches that are torn from the tree create more
damaged surface area that is susceptible to attack from diseases and insects than branches that are
snapped off clean. Loosing the main upward growing branch, known as the leader, can cause permanent
damage to many species of trees. The tree may survive without its leader but may be stunted or deformed to
such an extent that it is undesirable in the landscape. When assessing damage it is also important to look at
the surrounding limbs. If a large branch is broken off the tree is there a nearby limb that will grow and fill in the
bare spot? Hopefully this will give everyone some things to consider when assessing storm damage on trees.
Click here to read more of Andy's Ozark Horticulture Blog.
Plant three rows of peas:
1. Peace of mind
2. Peace of heart
3. Peace of soul
Plant four rows of squash:
1. Squash gossip
2. Squash indifference
3. Squash grumbling
4. Squash selfishness
Plant four rows of lettuce:
1. Lettuce be faithful
2. Lettuce be kind
3. Lettuce be patient
4. Lettuce really love one another
No garden without turnips:
1. Turnip for meetings
2. Turnip for service
3. Turnip to help one another
To conclude our garden we must have thyme:
1. Thyme for each other
2. Thyme for family
3. Thyme for friends
Water freely with patience and cultivate with
love. There is much fruit in your garden
because you reap what you sow.
1. Turnip for meetings
2. Turnip for service
3. Turnip to help one another
To conclude our garden we must have thyme:
1. Thyme for each other
2. Thyme for family
3. Thyme for friends
Water freely with patience and cultivate with
love. There is much fruit in your garden
because you reap what you sow.
Inspiration and Motivation The Garden |
| "One acre of forest absorbs six tons of carbon dioxide and puts out four tons of oxygen. This is enough to meet the annual needs of 18 people." - U.S. Dept. of Agriculture |
Tips on Using Gray Water For Your Garden
Submitted By: Beverly Saltonstall
Every day, more and more news is coming out on just how damaged the environment has actually become. We
are finally awakening to the fact that we have severely damaged our planet and we are looking for ways to live
better and not deplete our precious natural resources.
One simple way to help the planet is by planting trees. Trees have a natural ability to convert carbon dioxide that
is present in the air, into oxygen. Another way to help is to conserve water so there is enough water for all
humans, plants and animals.
Here in lies a paradox. How can we achieve a balance between giving plants very little water while trying to
conserve it, yet giving those plants enough water to survive?
Scientists are hard at work trying to develop plants that are genetically engineered to require little water to grow,
but we can also do our part. One way is through a gray water rerouting system.
What is Gray Water?
Water that is generated from our baths, dishwashing, hand washing and laundry is called gray water. Black
water is water that is generated from our toilets. It is estimated that an average family of four, generates nearly
three thousand gallons of gray water weekly. This water is wasted down the drain and could be reused.
The gray water that is discarded does contain soaps and detergents and often bleach. These soaps and
detergents do contain certain minerals that can actually help plants, but the gray water also contains chemicals
that may harm plans and the soil. Bleach is especially dangerous as it damages the roots and can actually
stay in the soil for a long time.
It is possible to reroute the gray water that is now going down the drain and reroute it to your garden. This is
done through a series of treatment tubes and a filtration system. This will help the environment by permitting
more plant life to grow and you are conserving water by reusing water that would have gone to waste.
The following tips will help you get started to use gray water for your garden.
If you are planning to use gray water to water your garden, then take note of the following tips before you start.
Check with a local plumbing supply house or repair shop to see what products are available to reroute gray
water.
Drip irrigation systems that direct gray water directly to the plants are available. These types of units are very
efficient as they direct water to the root system of the plants where it is needed and best absorbed.
Most gray water does not require treatment, but a filter on the system will help keep dust or debris that may
harm delicate plants, out of the water. Your plumbing supply will be able to assist you on how to treat the water.
A stop at your local gardening supply center or landscaping professional will be able to give you information on
whether or not you can use gray water on the plants you have in your garden.
Most gray water contains phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen, all of which benefit plants. These chemicals
are found in organic soaps and shampoos. Check the labels on the products you purchase and look for natural
or organic products. Avoid products that contain toxic chemicals and bleaches. If you notice that your plants are
suffering damage from the gray water, stop using it and consult a horticulturist or gardener.
Research is needed before you can use gray water. Every garden is different and has different plants with
different growing conditions. If your passion is gardenias, you may not want a gray water recycling system as
gardenias to not like soap products, and can damage them severely.
If all this sounds expensive and beyond your ability, remember that you can still recycle gray water by keeping a
bucket handy whenever you do your laundry, wash your dishes, or take a bath. If you use organic soaps, you
can use this otherwise discarded water on your plants.
Winter Gardening
Submitted By: Kathy Wilson
Just because the garden is asleep doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty to do for winter gardeners. Winter gardening
takes advantage of little or no plant growth at this time of year to force us to concentrate on admittedly less
attractive, but equally important tasks. There are many things you can do this time of year to make sure that your
winter garden turns into the spring garden of your dreams.
*If the cold permits, use the winter in the garden to work on structure and hardscaping. This is a great time to
plan or build arbors, built in seating, edging and paths. Winter allows you to see the bones of the garden to
help you visualize where it needs some hardscaping. Perhaps your paths need to be redirected, or you see a
spot that could use a trellis and some height. Take advantage of the bare winter garden to provide your plants
with a background and structure.
*Use this time to redesign your flower beds. If you haven’t already created a garden notebook, now is a good
time to start. Draw a diagram of each part of your garden, and mark the spot of the flowers, shrubs and bulbs.
You may have to add items as spring approaches, and up pops that plant you had forgotten about! Get a basic
layout of your garden, and consider what worked last year, and what didn’t. Note blank spots in the garden, and
use paper templates to try new combinations of flowers within your beds. Color your paper templates to help
you visualize the effect on the garden. Make a separate page for each plant you have in your garden, and note
as much information as you can about it.
*This is the time to browse those garden seed catalogs! Don’t wait until spring, by then it will be too late to grow
from seed for this season for most plants. Consider ordering some new varieties of old garden favorites such
as sunflowers, coneflower and foxglove.
*If you want to plant vegetables this year, now is the time to prepare your beds. Till or spade under your chosen
vegetable plot, then add organic matter and fertilizer and till in. Allow to sit several weeks to settle, until proper
plating time for your area. This will prevent any hot spots in the garden from your organic matter and fertilizer,
and allow the soil to settle to prevent drying out of the roots.
*Start some seeds indoors to have plants ready to put out in the garden after last frost. Now is the time to grow
those plants from seed you can’t find at the nursery. Your indoor seed growing station can be as complicated
as a deluxe indoor greenhouse with lights, or as simple as a re-used egg carton on a windowsill. Some easy
plants to grow indoors from seed include most sun loving annuals and such perennials as Shasta Daisy,
Black Eyed Susan, Coneflower, Coreopsis and many ornamental grasses. Growing perennials from seed can
save you hundreds of dollars, as the average 4 inch pot perennial sells for $3-$6, and a packet of seeds that
might produce 100 plants averages $2.
*Finally, go over all your tools and supplies, and find out what needs repair, attention or replacement. The last
thing you want is for that first spring day to arrive and you rush out to pop those first seeds in the ground, only to
find your gloves need to be replaced or your spade handle is breaking!
Just because the weather is cold doesn’t mean gardeners must sleep! Use the time wisely, and you will be
rewarded with plenty of time to enjoy those spring bulbs and fragrant flowers in just a short time!
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